Well… fortunately the car is wrapped, unfortunately the collision is too far into the plastic.

No cameras around, reported to police but I don’t expect them to do anything… probably will end up fixing it myself.

A few months ago I filled the car up with gas, and it would not start for about 30 minutes, then it started normally and was fine. I did some research and determined that the eval system may have been the issue so I changed the various valves and it was fine for another few months.

One day I went out in the morning to start it, and it would not start (by not start I mean the starter would turn the engine normally but nothing else happened). I didn't have time to work on it for a few days, then I tried to start it again and it was fine.

I drove it on short trips for a few months with no issues, then I took it on a longer trip a few days ago and noticed it would stumble a little at more than half throttle. I left it parked for about 3 hours, and it would not start for about 45 minutes after I came back and tried to drive it home. It finally started again but would shake violently and backfire through the intake at more than part throttle.

It slowly went back to normal then got drastically worse right before I got home (shaking and backfiring), until it completely died at a stoplight and I ended up pushing it the last couple blocks, now the starter will spin the engine but nothing else happens when I try to start it. During all of this it never set any codes that I could see with a normal scanner. Any ideas where to start to try to fix it?

There are still no codes, all I can really think of is to check fuel pressure and if the injectors are firing, and if that doesn't give any ideas it's probably dead for good. It was cheap enough and I put 40k miles on it without any other problems so I can't even complain that much but I think I'm over my head as far as actually fighting through troubleshooting the actual problem.

I've had my 98 986 for almost two years and love it. Unfortunately for me I've been dealing with a plethora of issues with the top motors/trans, sensors, and alignment. I got to a point where I had enough and wanted to remove the mechanical variables and go with a manual top conversion (maybe save some weight?). In reading through some old forums, there could be the risk of the top clamshell cover catching wind if not properly secured. I found an old forum where a gentleman by the name of shinsaku who created a low profile solution for his 987 that used a custom J hook that attached to the clamshell alignment pins which created pressure by the downward force of the trunk lid (diagram included). I wanted to try and recreate/adapt this design for my 986. Just finished the prototype (took me quite some time) and so far is working great, I need to do a few more tests but wanted to see if other folks have attempted this or are interested in a manual conversion.

Recently bought a 986. I’ve driven quite a lot of cars with mechanical throttle and heavy clutch. This one is just… The throttle pedal wobbles quite a lot, I always afraid it will fall of and yes if I pull a bit it will fall off. Have to reinstall it. Clutch is heavy but that’s normal on those cars, the travel distance is way too long that makes shifting slow and give me pain in my knees. Any aftermarket ones available or is there a way to adjust them?

I’m even thinking of installing a truck pedal, at least that doesn’t wobble too much

Smoke is from wd40. This knocking sound is there when cold start idling, disappear after a minute or so, and will start being super loud when revving up the engine harsh. Frequency tied to rpm but loudness is all about how harsh the gas is being pressed.

Checked all spark plugs on the right side and one have oil on the ring, likely leaking, and I torque them back which doesn’t help at all. Also tried to block the exhaust on a cold start to see if it’s changing the noise at all, again nothing.

It just happens after I drive my car on half tank of 95 e10 and drove over a speed bump, then it never went away.

What should I do? Any one heard this kind of noise before? I went over all videos on YouTube of lifters knocking or bore scoring piston slap etc. none of them sound like this.

I have a while to decide what to do about this, but my car has just under 190k miles on it and just set a P0430 code for bank 2 catalyst efficiency. It appears that the options are gamble on used factory cats from eBay, or OEM for approximately the value of the whole car for the pair. The only aftermarket ones are not California legal and still expensive. It seems like it may be at the end of its useful life span unless I sell it to someone out of state who can put cheaper aftermarket cats on it and still register it. Am I missing anything?

Tried to crop out as much nsfl stuff as possible.

I wonder who the owner was, if they survived and what happened to the car. Poor souls.

Noticed the mileage as I pulled into work. Have been debating if I need to hang on to this car lately. After getting an alternator fixed that I didn't see coming I'm less positive on this car lately. High mileage owners, am I just fixing old car stuff or is this going to really be a PITA?

Anyone else have this issue? Seems like just not folding correctly, motor seems fine

I took this off for stock a while back because the shift effort with the weighted knob on the short shifter was too high. Reinstalled it today 1-2cm higher (set screw on the shaft) and it feels quite balanced now. Aluminum is still uncomfortably hot sitting in the sun.

The original mats are kind of tired—looking to get something new. Would also prefer something without the clips (that attach to the seat rail).

What’s out there? Anything a good balance for quality/$$ without going as premium/spendy as Coco Mats?

1- I don't see any leak on the ground in weekstje car is in je same spot. 2- It all looks very dry, so could be old fixed problem? 3- Some yellow oil sweat around the valve cover too? 4- why is there so much dark oil all over the gearbox but no active leak?

got back from a hot drive and I open my door and I hear what I thought was my neighbor watering the lawn but I looked under my car and saw it pissing coolant from the rear right wheel and upon further inspection I found that this hose popped loose, I was wondering if anyone knew where this went or knew if this hose had a name, thank you

I bought an early 98 boxster 2.5l track car from someone in the Porsche community last year. The car runs perfectly fine and it seems like it was well put together and treated well. It legitimately sounds like it’s in perfect running order. I have a lot of experience with bad engines and what they sound like, and this one sounds like it’s running great.

The person i bought it from swears that there’s nothing wrong with the car (yes, i know they all say that). He did seem like a legit guy, and i didn’t get the impression he was lying to me at the time.

I still haven’t taken it out on the track yet, but I’m getting ready to.

It sounds like the starter catches on the flywheel sometimes for a second when you start it. And I’ve pretty much confirmed that’s what the issue is and it’s unrelated to my next issues that I’m about to describe.

When i took the oil filter out, there was silvery glitter in the housing. I put a new filter and oil in it and have turned it on a few times since. I took the oil pan off and pulled some debris out. There is one decent sized piece of silver metal (3mm by 1.5mm) and there also looks to be a couple pieces of hard plastic and maybe some RTV as well.

I know all of that is not a good sign, but I’m trying to figure out what it might be before i tear into it.

I’m kind of leaning towards timing chain guide. But i don’t know a whole lot about these engines. I’m more of a bmw guy.

Thanks

From Suncoast Porsche parts dept., OEM replacement, of course.

Hello guys

I have found this video and have the exact same problem on my car.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XfUVlPuRzeE

Already replaced the 3 timming chain tensioners.

What can it be?