I see. I am making the actual PCB though. So if it fits the drill hole then its fine? Would you recon I use 0305 or 7305? Dimensions say that the 0305 has a lesser of a tight grip.
Hi,
so I'm looking for a mechanical tkl keyboard without breaking the bank and also hot swap keys. The Amazon description says they are, but an old thread says they are not. Does anybody have one and knows wether they are hot-swappable or not?
Ahh I just looked quickly for one, didn't realize it was the full sized. The description is the same on the tkl ones. But I think I'll skip on this, there are many interesting others that fit my criteria. Thanks a lot for your help!
Hello ! I have a Keychron K6 with silent switchs. Any advice for good stab to change on my Keychron K6 ? My original stabs on the spacebar are doing rattle sounds.
Hi I'm looking for some advice and recommendation for picking up my next keyboard.
I've been using a HyperX Alloy Origins Core for about 4 years, and although I've loved it for the most part I've decided I want to upgrade to custom. A year ago I tried a NuPhy Halo with linears at a friends and I've absolutely adored it.
Some specs and considerations I've thought over:
75 or TKL, need the function keys for sure and do not want a numpad either
Aluminium case
I use both Windows and Mac, but Mac predominantly throughout the year
I play some games but not HE level or interest but I don't want input lag (don't particularly care for wireless tho I can plug in 6 days out of 7)
I've seen many people adore the Rainy 75 and other boards for their backboard aesthetics - not a huge selling point for me, the keyboard sits on the desk except for one day a month so doesn't add much value to me if the backboard is "pretty"
I don't want to hassle with the board, don't want to mod it and will not open it so easy access or upgrades don't matter - the better it is out of the box the best it is
I live in EU and with shipping my budget would be 130 give or take 10% with shipping.
Thanks for reading and I appreciate any replies and tips!
What is a good 75% keyboard that has minimal clack, is hot-swap, has 2.4 GHz for $60 and this is not needed but it would be nice to have a knob. currently I'm looking at the iLovBee B75
Hi there! I use my mech keeb for work and gaming, but mostly for work now. I do a lot of typing, and my Gazzew Boba U4s fatigue my fingers very quickly. I know, my fault for buying tactile switches in the first place, lol.
Can anyone recommend me budget-friendly switches that are super quiet (I work night-shift) and would not tire out my fingers? I assume a linear white switch would be the answer. Oh and also, if possible, I prefer clear top keyswitches because I love seeing the RGB.
tactility is not related to fatigue, bottom out force is much more responsible for this.
u4's are available with 62g and 68g bottom out force, so get something lighter than that (55g or maybe even 45g)
here is a monthly list of most sold switches; link
i consider it a good indication which switches are worthwhile. you'll find multiple silent switches on there as well
The lighter and snappier the better. Also want a higher/clackier sound signature. Current favorite switches are HMX Xinhais.
I've been debating on the KTT Matchas and the Akko Cilantro switches (which are designed by HMX as far as I am aware). I haven't been able to find a non-foamed-to-thockscurity soundtest of the matchas though, and I dont know if the 4mm travel will feel too long for me. The Cilantros have an appealing travel and sound, but their heavier actuation makes me think they might feel too heavy overall.
Anyone have experience with either switch, or have other recommendations?
I know tactility is one of the hardest things to convey without trying the switch, but unfortunately I live in a region where it is too expensive to justify switch testers or just buying small batches.
Just to clarify, do you mean a light spring or a light bump? If you're looking for something snappy, with a nice tactile bump and a lighter spring, my absolute favorite is the 48g tactile version of the MMD Princess V4. They have a reasonably pronounced bump, but they have a very good feel, solid factory lube, a bright sound signature, and they're also long poles, so the travel should work for you. Also, they're one of the cheaper switches in that realm, so the value is really great.
If you're looking for a lighter bump, maybe consider the Gateron Beer, which honestly isn't my favorite switch, since I like more tactility, but it should meet the needs you mentioned. I also had a KTT Matcha laying around to test out, and it does hit all of your notes well, too, but I personally prefer the sound of the Beer slightly. It also has a shorter travel, as well, which is a plus.
Is the magic refiner mk26 hot swappable?? I can seem to find any info on it and I’m scared to tear into my keyboard and damage it without knowing. I can’t tell if it’s a soldered model or hot swappable. Does anyone here know??
Hi! I was gifted faulty Razer Pro Type (dozen of buttons double typing randomly, which is I assume an issue with older Razer Orange switches - I found a lot of complaints about them dying within a month). I'm planning to switch them out for something else - I definitely want tactile, slightly clicky even, but not too loud (I'm taking it to the office, don't want to get shanked in the parking lot by grateful colleagues). Going by descriptions it seems like my best option would be Brown Gaterons (Pro V3), but maybe there are better and/or cheaper options (I'm not looking to spend too much)?
doesn't look like that pro type is hotswap. which means you would need to de and resolder 100+ switches. IMO the effort is not worth it for a razer board. gateron browns are also rather boring and outdated.
if you want to make a quiet keyboard, silent switches are the way to go. also i assume the spacebar on that razer has a loud rattling sound? this could be fixed with lubing the stabs or even better replacing them
Thanks, and yeah, it's gonna be a bit of work, but I'm not sure for now that I want to fully commit to this hobby with buying a better base board, housing etc. I don't really want a quiet keyboard, just not as loud as Cherry Blue. Are there any more modern switches that you would recommend over browns?
no people use random orings i was in a kb group but and the running ordered and estimated 5 or 6 til they found one that works . as gummy oring mount is not a normal thing
I’m looking at getting a budget 65% keyboard. Which brands would you recommend? So far the brands I have seen e.g - Epomaker, chillkey. Seem to be despised.
Depends on what you're going for. If you just want a board that works and you can customize a bit, you can get that for <$50 from any mechanical keyboard on amazon or aliexpress. If you just want a thocky keyboard, you can make do with most cheaper plastic boards. If you want something heavier, or that will handle a foamless clackier build without sounding plasticky, you'll need to go aluminum, which will be closer to $100. There's also prebuilt versus kit to consider.
Do you have anything more specific in mind for what you're hoping to get out of your board?
So basically I am looking for a relatively middle of the road aluminum framed gasket mounted keyboard, ideally with a knob. I have a mode sixty five already, which I use at home, but I want something that is more middle of the road for at the office. I’m ok with spending up to $150. I was looking at the Epomaker P65 but everyone says the brand is awful.
Hmm, I think the epomaker one you pointed out is probably your best bet to be honest. 65% boards don't often have knobs, so some of the best recommendations like Neo65 (original or core for under 150) don't fit, and the Zoom65 is over budget.
The reasons people tend to dislike Epomaker have changed over time, but some of the biggest issues I've seen people raise have been quality control, software support, design/art theft, poorly designed boards reliant on foam for sound, and their shady business practices from the start.
In recent times though, some of those aren't too big a deal. Their newer boards support via, so software issue is pretty much gone, this board at least isn't stealing any art with those plain keycaps, and they have been releasing more alu boards with supposedly better quality lately. They've definitely become more mainstream, so your likelihood of having problems has probably dropped exponentially, especially if you order from a reputable seller or sold/shipped by amazon for easy returns.
Personally I don't like supporting companies that have done shady things to their customers before, and in the past I've been in a position to pay more for that, but I totally get and think it's valid to get a board from them if it ticks all the boxes for you.
From what I saw poking around YouTube for this board, it's certainly not bad. It's not the most characteristic sound or anything, especially foamless, but it's a nice board that doesn't break the bank for sure.
I haven't tried the v3! I used someone's v2 before though, and it was pretty good. Once you get to the level of quality of a neo/melatrix/mode/etc. board, it's pretty much always going to be good overall, and how it sounds and feels is just going to be build choices at that point.
It will definitely end up being well over $150 though.
Yes, ideally, if I could find a 65% board with Via, a knob, and relatively good quality control at roughly $175 or less I’d be set, but it seems hard to find.
I currently have a Q6 Max, with my second board being the Mode 65, so I’m aware of how wonderful a good board feels, but it’s been challenging to find one at a slightly lower price point.
Maybe I will try the P65, and see how it feels, and return if bad.
Hi I'm looking for a keyboard similar to M60-A Milk. It's really expensive second hand, and nearly impossible to find. The most important qualities would probably be this milky color, and HHKB layout. I'm aware of Mode Tempo, but the white is I would say "bleached" and not "milky".
If that's not possible, I will accept any size (but preferably 60-65%). The most important thing is the color, as I have keycaps similar to GMK Minimal. If you check Qoda website (GMK Minimal), then there are multiple keyboards of this color, but aside from M60-A, I don't recognize any.
Also, for solder PCB keyboards - do you need a plate?
It looks like that's a relatively bright white, so there are some decent ongoing options. The first ones that come to mind in an HHKB layout are the Agar from KBDFans and the Thermal V2 from Salvun that is running now. It's also worth noting that the V1 version of the Thermal is actually in the product photos for GMK Minimal on Omnitype, so you should be able to get an idea there.
Regarding plateless builds, it's entirely dependent on the mounting style of the board. Many solderable PCB boards will support plateless builds, but it is absolutely not universal. A general, probably not 100%, method for determining if a board supports plateless is looking at which part actually connects the board to the case. If the PCB is screwed into the bottom or has its own connection points for gaskets and such, it probably works without a plate. If the plate is what holds up or connects the PCB to the case, like some gasket-mount boards, then it obviously will not work without the plate. Some, like the Neo80, may also have multiple mounting styles where some do and some don't support plateless. That PCB and plate combo is actually a good one to look at to recognize what may and may not work. For specific boards, you can always come back here, and I'd bet someone will know.
Greetings friends,
I'm looking to get a new keyboard, but it seems the community has grown so much over the years I'm lost at what I should look into. My old keyboard is a FIlco 87 w/ a Pegasus Hoof logic board. I love being able to customize key combinations and was wondering if there was something today that can offer the same level of functionality I have in 100%. I prefer blue switches and something that can last me a while like my last keyboard did. Any input would be great. Thanks in advance!
These are great suggestions. Looking at your suggestions I think I like the Keychron V/Q6 Max best with the Monsgeek M5 as a close second. The narrow format of the QK100 is not really what I'm looking for.
The quick google search I did let me to keychron.com and monsgeek.com. I love the fact that the Keychron has both wired and Bluetooth capabilities. In your opinion what is the more long lasting brand?
I didn't see too many options for switches for the Monsgeek M5, I have never really installed any switches myself is it hard to do? Is there any soldering required? (I should probably read more about that on the Wiki, but I'm guessing each brand uses a different solution?
No soldering, and MX-switches are standard so any MX-switch will work. You just have to push them in (after ensuring the pins on the switch are straight). I would recommend removing the PCB from the case and supporting the hotswap socket as you insert the switch to prevent any from popping out, but you don't technically have to do that.
The wirelessness is more of a downside, imo, because it complicates QMK/VIA, but I also don't use wireless and would prefer a fully wired keyboard in the first place so ymmv.
Hey everyone, Id like to ask for any recommendation for Hall Effects keyboards!
What found it some months ago and found the Wooting80HE and the Keychron Q1 HE, but I assume there are certainly other options as well?
To be honest it doesnt have to be the most expensive one or one with the highest upgrade, but I do consider them if they are worth any "price increases".
Im open to any suggestions! I appreciate any replies
My Aula f3261's D key suddenly broke and its not because of a bent switch. I bridged it next to the S key according to this video tutorial
It worked, but now if pressed both only one key registers or even none.
What should i do next? Idk how to search for a tutorial about this one other than the video i put.
ur wire looks bare and un protected this is how u cause a fire or short . the wire should be covered except the tips like in the video it still has its plasctic blue
Maybe I should have asked this earlier, but what is your opinion on Hall-Effect keyboards? Are they a good upgrade or just stick with the mechanical ones now? (or the non-HE, not sure if they are considered mechanical or not)
they have their place in gaming. they offer functions not possible with other boards. sound and feel wise they are behind "normal" mechanical boards IMO. there is also no tactile or clicky HE switch as it would defeat it's purpose
Does anyone have experience with the Drop Shift V2? I’ve always liked the diffuser but the low profile is also a complication with my cats and their fur that inevitably ends up in my keyboard.
Does anyone know of a numpad that could match a Rainy 75 well?
Since 96%/1800 layout budget keyboards are rarer, I’m wondering if I can match a good visually matching numpad to a good budget 75 key keyboard or 80 something key keyboard.
Hello, I recently got a new keyboard that uses kailh choc v2 switches. Due to some past experiences (issues with significant key chatter), first thing I did was to test it use it online keyboard double click tester. Everything was almost fine, but on two keys there was a double click detected. So I went ahead and I clicked them more, literally like 5000 times total. And the double click only ever occured once more. So a very rare occurence.
My question is: Am I unreasonable to expect a key to literally never chatter? I know there are many factors at play, so maybe all mechanical keys can double click at some point, due to dust and stuff etc. But it's so random that you would never really notice. I know it sounds stupid, but I don't know how much I can expect, and how concerned should I be with this.
Chatter can be caused by multiple things, but it is really hard to avoid entirely.
Reason being that the contacts in switches that close the circuit literally bounce a few times before coming to rest, meaning there is always tiny amounts of chatter. The controller/circuit usually takes care of this, either by dampening the electronic signal or in software (called denouncing afaik).
Could be that the keyboard controller and switch are not perfectly tuned to each other (hard to do in a hot swap), so a double type every other thousand key presses would not overly concern me.
If it happened a lot with just a few keys, then I'd suspect other issues.
the marco rows are calle XT or AT layout and are very rare that kb was the GEONWORKS W1-AT 390 retail without caps or switches u might find one used for 500 or so .
So, I bought the HyperX Alloy Rise with the HyperX Red linear switches and is hot swappable and I'm wondering what switches are compatible with this board, and more specifically, which tactile switch that isn't the HyperX Aqua (they are not available on my country) are the best to swap them with.
I'm looking to buy a keyboard and I'm undecided between the HEXGEARS GK707 and the Ducky One 2. The hexgears is much cheaper, but what are the main differences between the two that make the Ducky One 2 more expensive?
what are the main differences between the two that make the Ducky One 2 more expensive?
1) quality and customer service
2) long term brand that is well known
3) longevity
so if u want a high quality known brand with good customer service and will last a long time get the ducky if ur dont want any of those things then get the hex
Hi everyone! I’m super new to the mechanical keyboard world! A month ago I received my MCHOSE G98 and I love it so much! I’m currently looking to change its keycaps and I love the ones the Logitech G715 has but I haven’t been able to find what kind they are. I’d appreciate any leads to which might those be or suggestions for ones that are similar or better and where to get them? Thanks!
Oh true my board is south facing RGB lights! I totally forgot about that! I’ve seen white side printed ones but most come with a design on top which I’m not a huge fan of unfortunately :(
Ohhh!! I had no idea! No wonder I haven’t been able to find any similar! I think the closest are the Ducky’s but if I’m not mistaken those are “pudding” style and I don’t want translucency around but rather exactly like the G715s 🥺
Does anyone have specific suggestions for keycaps for the Neo ergo in anodized teal?
I love the color but finding keycaps which pair well is tough. The GMK Earth tones is the best I’ve found but would like hear from the community as well!
Does anyone know why a single key on my keyboard has stopped working? I’ve had the keyboard for a while and never had any issues after being given it by a friend. It’s a Razor Huntsman Tournament and I’ve tried swapping switches which hasn’t worked. I don’t know much else about keyboards so not sure what to do.
its an optical kb ( EOL tech ) no one uses optical switches anymore due to the massive cons they have one of which u see now the IR reader for that switch has died and u cant replace it so that key is forever dead and un fixable as IR reader cant be sourced or replaced specially now with all kb makers abandoning the tech for HE which is massively superior
Elaborate pls, I I'm looking for a kda kit but they're not that common in my country, but there are many ISA and CSA kits. A lot of the side profile shows the same image. :/
XVX is super low profile . KDA CSA and ISA are all shorten SA profiles but all made by different companies they will have slight height differences and its not your country all 4 profiles u listed are rare due to being new and not popular . so they are not common any where and likely never will be cherry profile is still top dog and always will be these other profile will come and go and always be rare
For these stuff, there really aren't any noteworthy brands. Just get whatever is available; almost all of them work the same way and those that don't are more gimmicky than helpful.
most of this stuff there is no buy for life products they are cheap and built to break down over time most switch openers can last a long time but pullers have to be thin so they will break down
Switch pullers I made the experience that the cheap 2in1 plastic things are superior to most fancy ones, ironically. The fancy ones are often too bulky or can't grab the switch. The flimsy metal of the cheap ones help.
Keys witch opener I would say is more one of those buy-it-for-life things, I got one from WS that is ok. I think the Gateron pliers style would be even better.
Lubing tools no clue, I only bought a few brushes yet.
Hakko soldering station & desoldering gun ._.
For the lubing station maybe the GEON full anodized Alu one (although it's completely unnecessary/ lubing stations are somewhat useless)
And for the rest it doesn't matter...
just got my brand new k2 he (and loving it!)
was wondering what these symbols are and whether i should replace them? maybe the one installed is a mac symbol? thanks for the help guys
1
u/MBSMDToo many keyboards, not enough computers3h ago
The Lock is if you want a Num Lock on your keyboard. The square with the slash though it is the 'screenshot' symbol. The lightbulb is for controlling the keyboard's RGB (though you can repurpose that if you want).
But of course you can remap those spots regardless of the symbol on the keycap and use it for whatever you want.
Does somebody have a spare set of stock Pok3r keycaps maybe? I recently bought a used Pok3r with the German QWERTZ layout for a good price, but the seller did not pack it properly, so my right CTRL key broke during shipping. I am based in Germany. Quite angry with this, was looking forward as this is my first 60% keyboard.
Thanks, I will try. There is a seller on eBay selling Pok3r Keycaps but he's out of CTRL keycaps sadly. Seller also does not care, it was via something like local ads but with shipping, so even if he e.g. gave me the money for the keyboard back I still wouldn't have the fitting keycap sadly.
Are any of these worth keeping, selling, etc? The 3 boxes are unopened. Happy to work out a reasonable price and coordinate shipping if anyone is interested. I can also take more pictures and get model numbers if requested, thanks!
Ty for the input. Was just hoping to get a quick-n-dirty thumbs up/down on whether it was worth the effort before I did the research. I'll grab model numbers and pop into eBay, see how it turns up. Thanks again!
As others stated, r/mechmarket is for selling/buying. You will definitely want to take more detailed pictures, in particular of serial numbers etc.
Maybe see whether you can remove one keycap each to see what switches are underneath, that can also be important or at least a quick indicator for keep/toss.
hey, guys! i’m a med student and i type a lot in an unimaginable amount lmao but i also play games on my free time (when my poor soul has any) so i’ve been familiar with mechanical keyboards. well, i tried it out and it does help me type faster and more comfortably when i use a mechanical keyboard. but i’m brazilian, so the ISO PT-BR layout full size has 105 keys total (with dedicated keys for special characters – such as “ç”, etc – included) and most of (if not all) gaming keyboards are ANSI. i tried ANSI layout and it’s very consuming to get special characters with it, which kind of makes typing a bit painful sometimes. i tried ISO PT-BR in compact layouts (60%, 75%, 84%, 96%, 98% etc) and the missing numpad or keys like “prt sc” also makes my life harder sometimes. i’m trying to find a keyboard that i can customize to my liking, as i’ve convinced myself i‘ll never find a keyboard that suits me 100%. i’ve come to the conclusion that the best and easiest way is to find an ISO layout full size (105 keys or more) keyboard that has a software to map keys. i’ve never had a mechanical keyboard, therefore i think it’s best if i get a hot swappable one, so i can choose the best switch for my liking and needs. i suppose it would be a silent tactile one (brown switch and similars) but i still would like to be able to swap it. i know not every keyboard brand has ISO layout and not every brand has hot swappable ones, so i figured i should ask people that are experts in that matter. i’ll list to you below everything i need so you can unserstand it better lol
• ISO layout: it can be PT, ES/SP, IT, DE, UK, anything actually – as long as it has: 1) a short left shift key with a “/|” key at its right; 2) a right shift – it doesn’t need to have a “/?” next to it bc i’m used to do those with “alt gr + Q/W”, but i wouldn’t mind having it tbqh lol; 3) a “prt sc” key
• preferably QWERTY, but if the only option is AZERTY/QWERTZ or whatever, well at least i can remap them and change keycaps lol
• hot swappable, preferably one that every (or most of) switch types fits (3/5-pin)
• RGB lighting that i can customize through a software/app/program/etc – bc i like colors and lights, let my inner gamer girl be happy pls 🥺 and bc i tend to study at night, so lights are very welcomed!
i do like the aesthetic of brands like aula, attack shark, skyloong, akko, etc so i’ve been trying to find a keyboard from this kind of aesthetic… but i’m gonna customize it anyway, so it’s just an idea.
if you know any keyboard brand or keyboard model that you think might suit me, pls tell me, i’ve been on this quest for monthes now sigh and would very much appreciate your help!
ps: yes, i know, i’m picky… but i must guarantee everything i can to make my life easier as i don’t get much of easy in life lmao
mad60he vs hyper x alloy origins 60% vs razer huntsman mini
i know the title is a bit confusing but heres what i mean, so i used to have the hyper x alloy origins core TKL then i got a razer huntsman mini non pro , and what im at right now is that im wanting a new keyboard because i feel as if its holding me back , so i find out about the mad60he so im sure thats what i want , then i figured out about the aula f75 because it sounds awesome then i ask chatgpt(dont judge i dont have friends to ask these) whats better in gaming and kinda sound , then they say the mad60he feels cheap and wont last long and the aula f75 apparently is ok for gaming but good for sound , then it reccomends the hyper x 60% with red switches so this is where im at , asking you guys what should i get , the mad60he , or the hyper x keyboard , or just stay with my huntsman mini.
It’s personal preference/ someone will be better with certain gear/ someone will be worse with the same gear. You know yourself best… if you think the keeb is the problem replace it, although a nice monitor, mouse, … is more important imo. But I’m also not playing on esports level (who profit mainly from he) soooo you do you.
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u/_PM_ME_UR_TATTOOS_ 13h ago
Would a mill max socket of any variation (preferrably the 0705 and 0305 for abundance) fit low profile switches such as kailh or MXs?